Guide this am….is Bunny
Jungle temple tour today

Everywhere we go the locals are aware of global warning. Hot season, very hot season, crazy (fucking) hot season

Now not so hot season so happy season for getting married with happy ending…lol! Dogs and elephants too!

White cows are stronger than black ones.  The black ones cannot handle the heat.  

Water buffalo have to bathe (get wet) within couple hours so now have modern water buffalo…motorized like motorbike. 

“Did you clear your business?” Means did you go to toilet?

Cambodians are not Chinese but celebrate Chinese New Year and become “Drunken masters”.

Ta Prom temple is name of Jungle temple 

893 AD… Bridge built

Fig tree…. Huge called Spung tree In Cambodia 

Angkor Wat is 164 sq km….with hand dug moat is 200 sq. km 

In 9th century Angkor Tom was built…. 9 sq. Km’s

So very fucking hot. Humid…31Cface dripping perspiration into eyes. Stinging … Can’t see. 

On the side of the road they are selling bamboo poles….. With sticky rice… For journey cuz it stays with you. They can add veggies and meat. If have to keep for longer period they pour it out, dried, then reconstituted later. 

 1112-1150.ad. Sandstone. Elephants to build

Last Hindu temple of the Khymer empire 

Angkor Wat is 164 sq km….with hand dug moat is 200 sq. km 

9th century Angkor Tom…. 9 sq. Kim’s

So very fucking hot. Humid…33C. face dripping perspiration into eyes. Stinging … Can’t see. 

On the side of the road they are selling bamboo poles….. With sticky rice… For journey cuz it stays with you. They can add veggies and meat. If have to keep for longer period they pour it out, dried, then reconstituted later. 

Most of us went quading out into the country.  It was fun…..my first time but I wished that I could have gone faster but that was not to be.  Got to keep one behind the other when a bunch of inexperienced tourists are riding.

For dinner we went to enjoy a meal at ” New Hope”, a training restaurant  and that in turn supports the school for victims of domestic violence and children of the street.  Excellent!

Feb. 11/16. Angkor Wat

Went to see the sun rise  over Angkor Wat….quite lovely.  Was up at 4 am…..not exactly holiday hours.

 1112-1150.ad. Sandstone. Elephants to build

Last Hindu temple of the Khymer empire  

Angkor Wat…… Earlier than Thom…never abandon….monks always here.

2 moats….dug by hand to protect the site.

162.4 hectares

Last Hindu temple of Khmer empire… Took from 1113…1152ad to build.

Face west …most face east. 

It took 6000 elephants. There are 10 million stone blocks that were brought from 55-60 km away.

34C. today….even hotter…..and humid. Don’t think I like this heat.  I did manage to climb up all those freaking steps at Angkor Wat. It always takes me longer but I am stubborn so will succeed in doing just about anything.

Where we stopped for a bathroom break, it was a market. We got to see all those insects that they now consider I guess, delicacies but were the reason the population was able to survive. Dried, prepared, barbecues, roasted grubs, things that looked like june beetles but are from the water, tarantulas, frogs, egrets, baby birds…..you name it. Some of us including yours truly, had the tarantula crawl on our hands, some on their face and some ate them….not me. Of course Viesal ate them all.l
One thing I haven’t mentioned is that the area we have travelled through so far is flat….very flat. There seems to be hundreds of square miles of rice cultivation although everything we see is spent ….(all ready harvested), with cows grazing on it. They do eat beef here by the way. Also there are different kinds of cattle than in India. Most of the houses are on stilts. I’ve been told it’s for flooding during monsoons as well as for ventilation, shelter for their animals and for storing their dried crops…..rice. There are lots of palm trees (coconut) and of course banana palms. 
13,000 square kms ….Tonle Sap Lake… When dry only 3,000 sq. kms. One of largest in Asia and the world.

Harvest season for rice…they have to allow to dry….cannot allow to get wet. 
“17 April people”. ……the new people that were more or less tossed out of the cities and sent to the farms during Pol Pot regime, were the most hated.
“Who is the Killer?”

“First they killed my father” survivor stories. This one I bought. I’ll read later. Maybe on the ship. I also bought one from one of the seven adult survivors of the Sleng prison

In Seam Reap has 300 temples.

Feb. 8/16…. 

Cambodia was French colony 1863-1953

Angkor Wat…religion symbol…Buddhist

Buddhism….peace in life

1953…gained independence

54-55… Communist party formed in south

1955.. Democracy by King Sihanouk….

1960-70.. Allied to Vietnam 

70-75… Was a republic ….Lo Nol leader….paid 25$ to kill VCs

270,000,000 tons of bombs were dropped during war up to ’75 by US

From ’76 to 79, Pol Pot was leader of country during which 2 million in Cambodia died up to 79. From 79-93… Another million died from starvation and as a result of the previous years.

Security office or prisons……198

Killing sites..388 with 20,000 bodies in mass graves

US helped save Pol Pot…Gerald Ford was president. 

Jimmy Carter saved 4,000,000 Cambodians….so said Visal our CEO

60,000 are hiv positive ..brought by others coming to help???

6 million land mines places….people still being killed by them. Still 1,000,000 mines.
Feb. 8th

20,000 killed at “The” Killing Field

17,000 killed at prison that was used to be a high school

1.7 million killed, others from starvation. Left only 4 from 7 million

Only 4% of population are over 65 cuz rest died.

They have some families with 20 in them but the average is 7-12 children in family…..they are now making up for loses.

Compulsory education

Pol Pot means political potential …he was a communist…teacher of history..Khmer Rouge

Called the country the Democratic Republic of Kampuchea when he was in power…a misnomer. 

Still don’t have freedom to talk freely cuz you never know who is a spy for govt. 

If the govt didn’t allow Viet Cong into the country then American forces would not have bombed Cambodia. 

Scared the people by saying that the there were spies in the city…..told to move out within 48 hours. They killed educated people.

In 1979 Vietnam overthrew Cambodia..year later world found out about mass killing.

They have had 20 years of civil war…

Corrupt govt now.

Training centres 167 prison…re-education centre, 343 killing fields. 342 field have been returned to parks or such. 

129 hills….burials at the “killing field” that we went to….. Is the only one left.

Killed everyone including generals and ministers of his, children, farmers, educated people

Angkar…..I think means revolutionary party …..those you have to bow to. If you don’t kill you will be killed….family, anyone not safe.
Omchamrouen…..name of our guide, could barely keep it together
2-6 m. Deep mass graves. 

Sleng Tree is totally poisonous … the prison’s name is Tuol Sleng…appropriate eh? 

The soldiers were ignorant and very young ….maybe 12 yrs., would kill and cut out the liver to make them strong and smart or the gallbladder to send to China … For Chinese medicine

The history of Pol Pot and the atrocities of that regime is not taught about in school because some members of that old regime are still in power.

Prisoners were brought to the fields blind folded, brought to edge, ordered to kneel, hit with iron or bamboo stick or anything that would not create noise… silent killing so as to not cause alarm and to save cost of bullets. Young women with babies were raped then told to give up their families and if they didn’t the soldiers would take the babies by the legs, swing them around and smash their heads against the tree. Awful, awful,a awful what they had to endure.

Made farmers grow rice for export to China for guns. Meanwhile those people were starving.

Only 15% educated people left at the end of regime. 

Our guide was only 6-10 yrs old. His whole family were separated.

His job was to be a scarecrow. Some children had to become beasts of burden to pull the poles and the like. They ate insects to survive. His father died. Not sure of the rest. Mother remarried had 20 children total.

Have to kill own parents, family. Brainwashed

Prime minister is former Khmer Rouge. King Sihanouk also. 

When Vietnam army arrived they found 14 dead in building A at the prison. 5 children survived.. 4 still alive 2 adopted., 7 men survived.. Only 2 still alive. 

All soldiers given amnesty but later 5 brought to trial. 

Gun bullet container used for toilet. Could dump once every 2 weeks. If spilled when taking out, they had to lick the floor with tongue. 

Second room prisoner had his stomach for the liver. Horrendous!  
 Just as we were leaving the restaurant in Phnom Penh at lunch today, one of our group got clipped by a motorcyclist. She got knocked over and the driver went into a skid and then into a tuktuk. The bike was a crotch rocket type and so shattered on impact. Annie has a very swollen lower calf but otherwise okay. The kid driving the bike that he did not own, got big road rash on his face and a big bill to replace all the plastic front end pieces. 
Later after visiting the King’s Palace and the Silver Palace, as part of our GAdventures tour, we all went on a cyclo tour. Before Pol Pot there were 50,000 cyclo peddlers in Cambodia. After, there were only 100(?). A cyclo has a chair for one being peddled in the rear. These guys wear shirts that say “support smoke free cyclo city tours”. BTW…there are tuk-tuks here in Phnom Penh but they use gas or diesel as opposed to compressed natural gas so smokey.

We are here for Tet …..Chinese New Year… A celebration that can last more than a week. Cambodian New Year is April 13. 
2.2 million population in Phnom Penh. There seems to be a prevailing stench of sewer here. Still no flies though. Strange!
Later we all went for a river cruise. As we were leaving a ferry was crossing the river. We we were told ride cost $.25 ea. way from one side to other. Veisal picked up lots of fruits, spring rolls, banana chips and some other dried veggies(sweet potatoes and beets), beers and pop, then a tuktuk ride back to hotel for US$12. Pretty cheap, eh? On the trail back up the river bank one of the other gals got a scratch from a rat that ran across her foot. Enough already!

We arrive Feb. 5th from Delhi. There are 3 Canadian ladies leaving the group tomorrow morning. They have been with the rest of the group (12) since Hanoi. Those twelve will be with us through Cambodia to Bangkok. The hotel is a “boutique” hotel…..to me that means small but chic…… maybe too small to move is more like it. Went for out to dinner to an upstairs restaurant…..Vietnamese band with traditional instruments including a 2 stringed violin and another was made of bamboo but operated along the same lines as a xylophone. There was someone making beautiful figurines on sticks made from pay doh. It is Tet in Vietnam. The streets have so many neon lights. It’s beautiful. Kind of gives Shanghai a run for its money. Maybe there will not be a lot of stores open during this period of Tet. We were told later to not have purses or iPhones, cameras hanging out where they can be snatched.  
Feb. 6/16

Mekong River tour. The river is tidal…twice per day……. 5 metre fluctuation. Our first stop is Unicorn island. We stop at a bee farm where there was a python that we all got to drape around our shoulders. See pics on Facebook. I will post later on this site if you don’t do Facebook. Anyway, it was quite heavy, was not at all slimey, it just wanted to slither out of our hands. You had to get a good grip on it sort of strangling it. There is Rat Island but it’s only for locals. At that point we are 50 km to ocean and it is 10 hours to Saigon from here by water. There are no crocs or sharks in the river.

No chemical fertilizer are allowed to be used.

No water from river is used for drinking or cooking.

Okay to swim in river cuz the snakes are not poisonous

Nov-apr. drier; May to October rainy season

17 million live on Mekong 

River boats have cage under to keep fish (catfish and tilapia)….grow to 1 kilo.. for export

Rice wine called happy water

Snake water and rice wine good for men….make babies.

Very hot (30+C) and sticky.
February 7/16

Hotel was lovely here in Saigon… But the the breakfast (included) yesterday and this morning was disgusting as was lunch yesterday. Coffee totaIly cold. I was concerned about eating in India and so brought protein bars and shakes but really the food there, although could be hot, hot, hot……it tasted much better there than here. There was a step in the lobby that everyone didn’t seem to see and so would trip over and almost fall but Jeanette actually did this morning….landing on here hip.  

Getting ready for departure this morning was stressful. We have to be able to carry luggage….onto public bus, have documentation for entry into Cambodia, more money for water out of room…not free….can’t find extra money. I will survive. 

When in India the cars, trucks, tins of tuk-tuks, just every form of transportation squeezes in wherever, beeping constantly ….not pissed off but to warn others that they are there, not moving (last day in Delhi the traffic would move maybe a hundred feet then stop and wait, turn off engine, move another hundred feet, stop, wait, turn off engine, yadda yadda). Here in Saigon same but different….many, many more motor bikes, no tuk-tuks but the motor bikes generally keep to the right side of road unless changing for a turn…not so chaotic (by the way they drive on right hand side of road here….not so in India). Motor bikes carry 2 adults, maybe two kids, groceries, plants and trees, another bicycle…all at same time…..amazing. We saw a bike with 2 adults, to bantam roosters , in plastic bags, one on either side like saddle bags…alive, along with another bag of whatever. Uunlike in India, adults here always wear helmets and most children too. I would say that better than fifty percent, children as well, wear face masks apparently to keep out dust. Pollution doesn’t seem to be the problem. No flys here. No mosquitos and no sleeping policemen (speed bumps). India was littered with them. In towns, veggie and fruit stands as well as raw meat hanging. Not the most sanitary conditions but not green and slimy as I had seen once in Mexico..

4000 Buddhist temples with 20-100 monks in each in Cambodia…..men and women.

There seem to be lots of women driving motor cycles both here in Cambodia and Vietnam as opposed to India where it was a rarity. In India, if you saw a woman on a motorbike, they would be riding in the rear….sidesaddle. I remember seeing a sign at a “learn to ride academy” in Delhi that said to use helmets “even women”. Mostly no one uses them there.

by PamelaTravelBlog
IMPRESSIONS OF INDIA, the North, ……. keeping it going .. Off the grid, out of the mist. In the circle of women friends. Royal stories.  

Exotic mysterious. Another world. Off in the distance and extreme up close. There is a mystery in the air, trees coming out of the mist, buildings with unique structures silhouetted against the sky. Full moon, hazy yellow sun ball of light.

Busy. Hazy. Surreal. Almost out of focus … Poor air quality, mist, smoke and smog.  

Masses of People. Hard working. Content and smiling. People wanting to please others. Peaceful. Tragic deformations, intense eye contact. Poverty, filth and tragic. Untouchables. Royalty, history. Caste, artisans and ancient ones. Descendants of change.

Brown barefoot and some with sandals. Women carrying items on their heads, using no hands. The body is a vessel of manual labour. Scarves. Bright coloured adorned women with grey clothed men. 

Chiseled features, black hair, deep eyes with big smiles. People wanting to be close to us, have their picture taken standing close. Beautiful sarees, prayer shawls. 

Sacred animals wild and tame. Dogs, monkeys, cows, Brahma Bulls, horses, peacocks, water buffaloes, chipmunks, green parrots, large dark birds of prey, chickens. Beasts of burden pulling carts of produce. Snowy white egrets.  

Chanting. Haunting music and bells, sounds of prayer. Music of India heard on the streets. Honking of cars, tuktuks and people, airplanes overhead.

Spice markets, scent of incense, florals, urine and dust. Vehicle exhaust.

Crowds of people on the roadways, on sidewalks and in doorways and businesses. People walking and carrying goods. People in rickshaws hauling heavy loads with strength of their legs. Gentle mothers cradling babes in their arms, holding hands with children close by, walking behind the men. Heads covered and shawls draped around covering shoulders and breasts. Skirts long to the ground, bright red can be seen from a distance. Single worker in the fields. Some carrying water jugs or large loads of sticks on their heads, some on knees working in the gardens and fields. Colourful, it tells of the hard life of rural women.

Green and orange and white flag waving with pride. Tents and cardboard huts for homes, clothes out on the line. Stacks of rooms where people stay, hundreds upon thousands of new apartments being built in the suburb area outside of the center. Town center in old area is busy and crowded, bodies touching as they go about their business. Men working in shops of countless varieties. Selling sarees, spices, textiles, food stuffs, clothing. Bare necessities of life. Jewellery adorns faces and necks. Henna designs on hands and feet.

Palaces and structures of ancient times, poetry in marble. Preserved and visited historical monuments, forts, palaces, temples …. a time of Royal reign. The Taj Mahal took my breath away.

Crisp cool foggy mornings. Sunshine through haze as day warms up.  

Cricket in the fields. Dust. Cows. Pigs. Garbage, goats. Bicycles. Herds of men standing and on bikes, driving. Some with colourful turbans, many in white or grey tunics and trousers, loose fitting kind of wrapped fabric instead of pants … 

Piles of dung and refuse. Water buffaloes tethered. 

Vehicle . Donkey carts. Small roadside cooking fires. Camel on highway. Pulling cart. Pig families nose down in the refuse. Tractors hauling massive loads overflowing the top and sides, three times the size of the vehicle …amazing sight. Sometimes two lanes, with three or four vehicles side by side sneezed on to narrow roadways to avoid collisions. Avoiding cows, dogs, people on roadways, honking to indicate passing on right … Or left!  

Mustard plants. Colourful flowers on green leafy trees. More bright yellow mustard in the rural areas.

Elephants wandering down the roads with their masters. So exotic to see such animals and sights.

The soft airy texture of pashmina and Kashmir, the beauty of silk. The bright colours of India. The feel of the quality between my fingers and around my shoulders. Ahhhhhh …. ! 

Desert oasis, peaceful. Birdsong, white egrets, birds of prey. Bright coloured flowers. Out of the mist. Sand dunes, sunsets, sparse vegetation, windstorm in the distance. Camels and camps spotted in the desert vista.  
Namaste, Pamela 
PamelaTravelBlog | February 5, 2016 at 11:38 pm 

by PamelaTravelBlog
ROYAL WEDDING in India

Weddings are a very big deal here. Starting with horoscope matches, if desired, families joining and much planning. It seems to be the biggest celebration in a lifetime.

3 days activities to a week and even ten days depending on much money and detail is to be included. Some weddings costing millions of rupees with hundreds of guests … Parties and ceremonies, elephants and horses, flowers and bangles. Wow! Exotic. It can take years and years to pay for the festivities.  

Many weddings in this white and romantic city of Udaipur. At our hotel we were exposed to an up close view of what goes on. A wedding to take place on our second night. Festivities were already going on when we arrived. Family members and guest of the beautiful Trident hotel, beautiful sarees, great celebrations. Breakfasts, laughter, women together in meeting rooms, chanting, music, large tent type enclosures, white fabric draped over metal scaffolding, red and purple flowers and decorations …. This could be a royal wedding!

On our full day in Udaipur, one of the activities for us was to take a boat ride to visit the island, where coincidentally the wedding ceremony was to take place. The palace, fortress and ancient structure had been completely taken over by wedding decorations. Marble elephants adorned with red blankets signifying the Royal presence, the place of the wedding. Marigolds strung and hung over carvings, trees, parts of the structures …. Overhead beautiful and elaborate light fixtures are created, adorned with purple and fuchsia flowers, strung and hung. Purple fabric draped again over structures created to centralize people and indicate where certain ceremonies will take place … The exchanging of garlands and vows and much more.

The caterers are busy creating and preparing foods, tables, chair covers.

The boats are being prepared with marigold strings and white flowers, (oleander?). When we returned to the shore in our adorned boat, we could see that chairs, tables and fabric, flowers and other items still to be taken over to the island.  

Usually the groom is to arrive on a horse or an elephant, depending on the cost for the family, and in this case, bride and groom will arrive to the island on separate boats so they do not see each other before the formal ceremony. Costs shared between families … The engagement paid for by grooms family and the wedding day vow exchange by the brides. Other days of celebration shared according to who is hosting which event … Feasts, dances, meals, and more ceremonies.  

Thousands of dollars and even millions of rupees are expended for this elaborate joining of families. The woman can change her caste as she joins with her new family, her new husband. The man, his caste never changes in his lifetime or that of his ancestors.

Romantic, beautiful and with much ceremony, this couple will join for a lifetime of being, working, growing, creating children and celebrating together. They will have priests attached to their family to provide guidance and spiritual support throughout their lives. 

We wish them a happy lifetime together … For all the years and children and love that will be created.  

Namaste and thanks for allowing us a glimpse into the rich cultural experience that is really the personal journey of two hearts.

Pamela 

Ps. There are 7 pre and post ceremonies.
Wedding dates are selected by horoscope. Jan, feb and Nov, even if it is a love marriage. Also time for 7 vows and mantras. Takes 3-4 hours. 

Groom side pays for engagement party, for example, a banquet, 400 people.  

The groom has a ceremony for Wrapping his wedding turban. There is a ceremony where relations and fiends give wedding bangles and other clothing items to assist the dressing of the wedding to the couple. The ceremony where the groom arrives on a horse surrounded by his relations and friends and there is a procession with the horse. In Hindu religion there is a ceremony at the Shiva temple. Decorations, music and lights accompany the celebration. Groom and family welcome guests. Celebration in a garden. All in all it is a very busy time. 

Families exchange gifts at a ceremony. There is a turmeric ceremony, 3-4 days prior to vow ceremony. Where the skin of the couple is treated.  

A Ceremony of henna application with bride. Husbands name is hidden in henna somewhere on her body. He has to find his name that golden night. 
7 promises from sanscript. Walking around holy fire. Family blesses them. Groom applies red powder of vermillion on the center part of his wife’s head, just above forehead. Every day he does it. Marks her hair as such. If he is away she applies it herself. When he is home it is a daily ritual for the married couple.

There is a Shoe stealing ceremony. The brides family and wedding guests demand fortune for the return of grooms shoes. Sister of bride steal groom shoes. Groom must pay. His brothers and friends protect grooms shoes. It is to connect and provide comfort so family she is leaving can feel confident. It is a lighthearted event for fun and family togetherness during this important time in their lives.

First royal welcome to groom …. Also a red line he must cross. Created by brides family and friend. 

She wears garland of roses to her knees. Bride and groom stand on a Rotating stage. People throw flower petals. Blessing the couple. Give the couple gifts or cash. This all takes time and there are about 150 guests still left up to 1-4 am. 

Bride is given lavish departure from her family. 630 am. Groom mama gives welcome to grooms home for the bride. She sees her home for first time. 

Bride and groom sit and big bowl of milk is laid before them. Groom drops his ring in bowl. Who is first to pick it up, 3 tries. Then she is going to be boss. He helps her so she will be happy. She deserves to be happy. 

Then reception party. Following night. Very colourful events. Elaborate. 

If sister elder or same age … Sister must marry first. Everything matters. 

“Vivah” is a Bollywood movie to watch. 

7 vows promises for happy and prosperous life. Eye witness is important .. For seven lifetimes. Groom says one, bride next, then groom. Then bride … Like this … Well not exactly but close ….

1. You will offer me food and be helpful in everywhere
2. I am the bride and will be responsible for house
3. I will protect our children
4. You will love me solely
5. We Will educate our children
6. I will love you solely for my life 
7. You have brought sacredness to me in my life
8. I will shower you with joy everywhere
9. You are my best friend and 
10. I promise to love and cherish you as long as I live. I will trust and honour you
11. May you be filled with joy and peace
12. I will always be by your side 
13. We are now one
14. I am now your wife and we love honour and cherish each other

Namaste, 

Have a happy life!  

Pamela

For pictures of my trip, check out 
PamelaTravelBlog | February 3, 2016 at 10:14 am 

by PamelaTravelBlog

SOFTEN, RELAX AND LET GO

The journey is to breathe and take it in, see what is and not attempt to make it anything else and then … Like clouds passing by, let it move through. Let it go.

As hard as this country and the suffering of some of the people is for our / my western heart … I am not here to change their lives. I am here as a witness to their lives and to see the country as it is. With non attachment I can witness the present and let it go.

Listening to Pema Chodron in the bus as we drive through the desert and past sand dunes, people and camels (and cows and dogs), I am enjoying the reminders to relax and enjoy the journey.  

I have learned some truths about this country and my judgements of same. Today, with several teary hugs I heard that some people judge and wonder why India lets it’s forts, palaces and structures go to disrepair … Why not fix them up to restore former glory? The answer I heard was that buildings can be built by people … If they fall down, they can be built again and again. India is not about these structures, it is about the heart and soul. Families and communities are the heart and soul of India. Ceremonies that bring families together, social activities that promote togetherness … THIS IS THE INDIA I CAME TO MEET. This is the India I found.

I did not come half way around the world to see the same same … I came to find out what is different. How can I find truth in this place? How can I experience peace and beauty in this country, so very different from my own? How can I be affected so that India goes home with me as my heart softens to its touch.

Tonight as I travelled by camel through the sand dunes to see the glorious sunset, I could feel the camel movement beneath me. I could experience the pace of the beast, and it’s gate as the flow of India. The camel stepped from the hard surface to the icing sugar texture of the deep flowy sand dune and I could again feel the softness of this earthy place. I could feel it as surely as if I was walking in my bare feet. I was so moved by the experience, the view of the other camels in silhouette of the brilliant and colourful sun set on this magnificent land and its people. Even now, hours later, I can be transported to that magical moment of softness and steady pace, THAT is India.

No anger here. No unkindness. Acceptance of what is and steady movement in pace with the breath of Mother Earth. Oh what joy in the simple letting go and letting be. Namaste.
More lessons to come 🙂

Namaste, 

Pamela
PamelaTravelBlog | February 1, 2016 at 11:28 pm | 

by PamelaTravelBlog

MODES OF TRANSPORT In India

At Fort Rajwada, while staying in Jaisalmer, we arrive by our bus and then evening camel ride at sunset. WOW!

Horse carriage to Taj Mahal. 

Jeep ride 

Eco friendly van

Bicycle rickshaw

TukTuk 

Elephant 

Camel ride on sand dunes to watch the sun set.

Walking

Bus

Airplane

A boat ride to an island
PamelaTravelBlog | February 1, 2016 at 11:27 pm 

by PamelaTravelBlog

Jaisalmer. Unesco Fort. Only living Fort in India, Asia and world. 900 years old. 

We have a wonderful guide, very good friend of Luv. His name is Lalu and he has a Great sense of humour and is a story teller. We are so fortunate. He is a guide of the highest quality … He speaks from his heart to my heart.  

This living Fort was once a long the silk and opium route in ancient times. Once inhabited by “robbers”, the very wealthy and corrupt … Allowing those who will pay for the service to enter. The Fort protected only those who pay. Not very democratic!

Then with border Pakistan and conflict, the trade ended. The trade route was severed. And no water was here in this desert place. No trade, no industry. Since 1947 no income for the inhabitants. Indira Ghandi introduced and supported in 1984, tourism. 

Previously women were carrying water on their heads from 1.5 km! So Mrs Ghandi funded a water canal to be built, some 647 kms. To improve and sustain the lives of those who lived in the Fort. It provided a Lifeline for this place, many thanks to her effort. 

In 1985 first tourist came. And for six months of the year, this is the only income for this town.  

Summer here is hell, temperatures of 48-50 even 52 C this past year or 126 F degrees. “It’s a punishment kind of place.”

“It’s not that easy in desert to see the lake. Haha.”  

First stop many crematorium and structures to honour those who passed. In ancient times, with no vegetation, no power … Architecture is special here. Unique, detailed and elaborate.  

Six months of tourism, rest of time helping each other. “This is a Living desert.” Hippies and gypsies. Very close to each other, close to heart. Safety for women, friendly and family atmosphere. 

We visited an Artificial lake. With little rainfall, this lake is very important to their lifestyle. Used to be a huge stone quarry, so filled it up :). Ghat is spectacular in the morning sun. A temple was built in this lake when it was started … A rule made never to destroy a temple and gate. The gate that was Built by a woman so some men, even today, the Royal leader will not enter the gate. Crazy! There is a king here now, he still won’t go through gate.  

I see strung marigolds in the lake, left over from ceremony to support spiritual growth.  

Nasty huge catfish bubbling up in the water. I took pictures and shuddered! I figure if I ever fell in, I would NEVER stop screaming. Luckily no one falls in from our group, lol.

A Gypsy woman arrives with a babe on her hip and small child at her side. We learn of her life style. The more kids in w family, the more hands to earn money. She is excluded from main community and had to walk 4-5 km to get here this morning from her home in the desert. Caste system still present. She sings for us and we are giving her a small donation of support. It is hard to support the begging of children. Such an internal conflict I feel within. So I breathe and let it be what it is.  

Mrs Ghandi made such a difference in the lives of women in this country. More than I ever knew. I will study more about her and honour the changes she made in the lives of women and girls around the world with her courage. Magnificent mentorship.

The owner of the 30 km diameter Fort was a “robber”, and built four gates. High security. Have to pay to enter the Fort. Storage of food was issue. If had to face enemy and enemy got control of Fort, they would poison their own water, bury their money, women commit suicide….. So there would be no gain for taking control of the Fort. So any conquerors did not get much. 

You can’t see next gate from this one. So if at this gate, the Fort dwellers could go out for food. Enemies could not tunnel in. 

All built from golden stone.  

A secret tunnel found by security guard of Mrs Ghandi. Was five hundred years since the tunnel was opened. No paper back then … But now archeologists are interpreting what was written palm leaves. Incredible place!  

Lalu tells us that the buildings can go in to disrepair … And India can boast the Best family, spiritual, and social life of the world! India offers that. 

The Grandmother is boss inside home. Men of the outside world. If you need a room of your own, you get it. Otherwise kids sleep all together with grandparents. No “old persons homes” in India. Family life in India supports family. 

India is heart. We were welcome in a family home. We saw how simply they live, how little in the way of possessions.  

Lalit is German. He spends some time talking to me about his values and his India. We weep together and hug. 

Three major emotional expressions, tears of change, today. With the brilliant guidance of this spiritual man … 

He said to tell my daughters they have a “nice, precious mom”. I want to weep again. I am so honoured to be in such a presence.  

Forever changed by the guides I have met. Lalu and Luv I am so grateful to know you! India is so much more than what we think and know about it. Meeting and speaking with the heart to the locals life guides is life changing. I wept many times today and I feel such gratitude and love. Thank you. Thank you thank you. Namaste

Pamela
PamelaTravelBlog | February 1, 2016 at 5:45 pm 

I just noticed that I had not posted this one of Pam’s.  Sorry that it is out of sequence.  It was her first day…..second day for 6 of us arriving the day before.

by PamelaTravelBlog
FIRST DAY in New Delhi

A quiet and restful sleep upon arrival at the Metropolitan Hotel and Spa. We are sheltered by the extremes of India, with air conditioning, and muffled sounds outdoors. Bottled water a plenty in our rooms, we start rehydrating.

The air here is heavy, grey with pollution. Thick hazy skies even last evening as we were departing the airport, a ring of grey air surrounded the lights.  

This morning there are birds flying overhead giving life to the skies. A great view out the hotel window of the buildings on the block, and the swimming pool below. Workers outside sweeping with large long bristled brooms.  

Sounds on the streets are louder than at home, planes overhead, banging of construction, honking of cars and activity everywhere.  

We meet up in the cafe in the hotel for complimentary breakfast, and arrange to go for a walk around the city. I feel safe joining with some of the gals who ventured out yesterday …. Not because they know where we are going, but because the familiarity with the customs, somewhat, and because I love the company of others. We are 12 in total at the hotel, 11 venturing out together in the late morning, about 1045ish a.m. As the day progressed and individual interest shift, we are 6 coming home together walking.

We came upon a bangle market … Rows and rows of bright and vibrant colours, rings and rings of bangles to adorn. Metallics, and many made of glass. I spy and am happy to say, purchased a dozen wire wrapped bangles covered in very bright threads, sunny golds, navy blues, brick reds, forest greens.  

So much of shopping is about the personality of the vendor. I noticed today that price for me is not as important. I want to purchase from a woman, although that is not always possible as most of the vendors and shop keepers – as well as business people I see on the street, are men. And then how attentive but not overbearing are they? Willing to negotiate a bit? Do they hear objections and ready to make alternative suggestions? A sale, any sale, seems to be based on the gentle scale leaning in favour of the first person able to make the connection with the person willing to part with precious rupees in exchange for a local trinket. Interesting to watch and observe how it all goes down.  

Another stop for several of the women to get the henna tattoo initiation. Select a photo from a book, negotiate a price, and in a moment it is complete. Then waiting 10-15 minutes for the brown mixture to dry and set to the skin. Again, one woman and several men each with a little table and chairs scattered in an open space. Incense burning and little items of a personal nature the table. Surrounded by intense eyes, we are watched closely by locals.

I don’t feel unsafe, however I feel observed. I notice that eye contact is freely given and so the place has an air of friendliness to me, human connection not withheld. I feel welcome in this city and although there is a lot of street presence, people with hands out looking for money, they seem not to be ashamed. They welcome my eyes with smiles and friendly glances, eye to eye. I shake my head no to the ones who are more assertive with requests for hand outs, and the others, I feel a mutual exchange of NAMASTE. Sweet really, and unexpected.  

Wandering in and out of crazy traffic we are guided to a shopping district. Clothes, handicrafts, foods … 

Yesterday four of the travelling gals had located and scouted out a shop of fabric, silks, saris, and scarves. They were not sure they would find it again but had promised “Anita” they would bring “Pamela” to the shop …. By complete accident we find that same store!! Beautiful items to behold and bolts of the most exquisite silks.  

Anita has a keen sense of colour and reading personality of the customer. She is certainly a sales person, and she is determined to find the right fit. I had on my list to have made a silk robe and pyjama bottom combo. She assures me this can be done and delivered to the hotel tomorrow evening so I can take it with me on the trip.

Silk is pulled off the shelves and draped on bodies, observed and enjoyed in the mirror. Tea is served, bottled water offered for me, and use of western style toilets are provided – to my relief. Selections are made. Some gals follow my lead and order for delivery. Some gals have other items made of a more practical nature, a pair of cotton pants and long tunic style shirt. Some purchase scarves off the shelf. And many of our group try on and learn to wear Sarees.  

I love the experience. By then, 8 women from our group all touching fabric and feeling taken care of in this lovely store. When we leave there is fabric of the richest colours and textures ever to be enjoyed, strewn about the counters and many faces of store clerks watching as we go. Their job now to repackage the items left behind and get to work sewing and tailoring our new purchases for delivery tomorrow.  

I feel fulfilled for a first day and relaxed about my great India adventure. I will seek mindful moments and human connection on this almost month long journey.  

Thanks for joining me and NAMASTE from New Delhi, India!

Pamela
PamelaTravelBlog | January 21, 2016 at 10:59 |