After a rough rocking-n-roll night on the seas, we arrived to the port with 30 to 40 knot winds and a 3-5 metre swell. Also the ship would have to anchor at a 90 degree angle to the shore in a very narrow port. They made the decision to cancel. The temperature is 9 C. 

Next stop will be to Akureyri….. very slowly. On the way there, we crossed the 66.33% latitude…. the Arctic Circle, during the night.

Aug 2/26-Akureyri, Iceland

We don’t have an excursion here. The last time I was here, we went to Godafoss ….. huge waterfall… spectacular, the bubbling mud pots and Dimmuborgir, the lava fields…(valley of the trolls) where the Eurasia plate and North American plate meet. Instead we just walked around the downtown area which is quite lovely with a slide down the hill for little kids. All along the street are hundreds of ladies shoes all painted up. On the way be decided to stop for a coffee and treats. 2 cappuccino and 2 treats were $30+ CAD. Wow!!!

The population for this town is bigger than we have seen at 17,000. The residential area (and I know this because….. I went for a looong walk to try to find a replacement battery for my watch and a replacement lanyard for my phone so that I don’t drop it. Not found!), is very utilitarian. Actually quite ugly homes with no evidence of loving their yards/gardens…. Not existent!

Oh my goodness!!! So gorgeous sailing into this port but OMG it certainly doesn’t feeling this is the date it says it is . It was a rough ride getting in here and now it is cloudy with much wind (so much for the hair staying where I put it this morning). But heh, it is up to 11 C…..

We will be seeing 2 waterfalls and a canyon plus a gas station for the most important stop …. It has a bathroom. 

Because we have a fare bit of driving to get we are going, today’s posting will be a lot of the humourous commentary from our guide, Thoranna, an Icelander that lives in Los Angeles in the winter. She is very entertaining 🤣. 

700 people live here in this town but with 2600 passengers on our ship, we kind of out-number them. There is also a Viking cruise ship in port as well. 

First dam in Iceland was built here . It is always dark here in winter, with lots of landslides. 

The trend for rainbow streets started here. There are only 400,000 people in all of Iceland. There has been a 300% increase of tourism in last few years so they have had to import workers from other countries.

Icelanders love golf. There are 40 golf courses in country. 

Farmers use drones to find lost sheep. 

Iceland had gone bankrupt in 2008 (as a number of other country’s stock markets took a major downturn), 2 years before the ash from Eyjafjallajökull volcano (erupting in 2010), causing all air travel in Europe to be halted for 10 days. 

Temperatures here range from 10 in summer to just around freezing in winter. 

The ground around here is old lava rock because it is far away from tectonic plate (where there is lots of volcanic activity). It was carved by ice age 12 million years ago. Iceland is growing in size by 2 cm per year because Asian and European tectonic plates are moving apart. 

Our guide pointed out that the lake area was covered by snow when she came two months ago. What reindeer are here, were imported but not many survived. 

Polar bears have to be shot if they come floating to Iceland because they are too dangerous …cuz they are hungry. 

All pines that are planted come from other countries…. are not native. Larch pine trees lose their needles in winter. When in 1874 the Vikings came, the land was covered with trees. Now only 2% of land has trees. 

Glacier rivers do not have fish in them…. only fresh water rivers do. 

Winter tourism comes because people was to see the aurora borealis. 

They don’t have last names in Iceland. Last name is combination of the father’s name and the word for daughter or son. 

There are not many animals here…. Only mink (are a major pest), polar bears when they float here on ice, horses (have 5 gates), and arctic fox, the only native animal. They are white in winter and reddish brown in summer. Bird life is amazing. Arctic “tar” (?) come all the way from Antarctica. They have a split-brain so can sleep while flying. 

Tourism is the first industry in Iceland with fishing being second. 

Energy is mostly geothermal with hydro as well. 

Poles along the road have one reflector on the right and two on left. The object is to keep within the two during winter when everything is covered in snow. That is so you don’t go off the road. 

The first of 2 waterfall is 120 meters tall called Rjukandafoss. 

Iceland was occupied by Denmark until 1944 when the Danes were themselves occupied…. by Germany. 

This road we are travelling on, is closed in May because the geese are nesting. 

Stujlagil Canyon is next stop. Studlagil Canyon was not a tourist attraction til 2006. It was discovered after a dam was built on the river and the water level dropped by 7 metres. It was then that basalt columns, in some cases a blue-green colour caused from the water. There is 239 steps down and 239 coming back up. 

We could not get down to the bottom… you have to come in from the other side. Beautiful though.

The smoking of lamb and fish because there are no trees, they use lamb turd. Make jam out of sheep’s head. Ptarmigan is a treat as well. 

8 universities in the country. 

Puffins nests are a in hole in ground (not the usual nests) is under a metre in size . They have only 1 egg each year and mate for life. It is made up of 2 rooms…. One is the bedroom and one is the bathroom… lol!  The males are dirty cuz they clean the house. They are the only bird that uses tools… can hold a stick to scratch their backs. 

One is born into the Lutheran church… is state run along with the liquor stores.  You have to renounce that religion if you want to visit another. 

I had booked a RIB tour out of the port thinking that we would be docking in Stavanger and picking it up there. Alas it was not, causing a bit of a problem. As it turned out they were able to get us onto one that left from a dock near our ship, in Sandnes. It was a bit of a rush along with confusion to get it all at the last moment. Once on board (after suiting up and putting on snow googles) it was quite a long, long bouncy ride but wonderful experience seeing magnificent scenery. Lysefjord is 42 km long. 

First stop was to see the Vagabond Cave where the water is 50 metres deep. It is a safe harbour for fishermen when the weather gets too bad, they can sit it out. The story goes that all the vagabonds/thieves would steal whatever they could in the towns and hide out in the cave (not very big cave).

Next stop was to see a couple of mountain goats. They were beautiful. Our guide said that they are taken out to that place (where they cannot escape) in the spring and brought back in the fall. 

Whiskey Falls, a 75 metre drop.  The story goes that a man who worked on a farm, decided to supplement his income on his off time, by making moonshine.  The vagabonds down the fjord would warn the moonshine maker when the police were coming to bust him. They would do that because they were the ones selling his product in town. Story goes also that the maker of the moonshine, to check that the zip line used to send the bottles down to water level, sent his wife down first …. Finding it safe 🤣. 

The main reason for this trip today was to see Pulpit Rock, a rock ledge with no guardrails, is 604 metres above the water. You can hike up to it (from some other location) but for a time, in 2017, they closed the trail cuz it was becoming too treacherous. Instead they hired some Sherpas from Nepal to fixed the trail and reopened it. 

What a spectacular trip… wow!

We were told we would be entering  the Hardangerfjord at 1 am, arriving at the town at 9am. 

Apparently there are 20,000 reindeer in area

Longest suspension bridge in Europe, 22nd in world and longer than Golden Gate….. built in 2013. The ocean is 160 ft below the deck meaning our cruise ship could get under it but not others. This fjord is the 2nd longest fjord in Norway.  Eidfjord at the end of that fjord that is 180 kms long. 

It is cool today….8 C with wind. 

Last ice age eroded and cut the land here to what we are seeing,  10,000 years ago. 

The sea water in Eidfjord is less salty (brackish) than further down the fjord where all the fresh water mixed with the ocean sea water. 

The next branch of the fjord we are travelling to is Simangerfjord. 

The goat farm way up the mountain at 2000 ft, has been in existence for 350 years. 

There is a huge power plant at the end of the fjord that is big enough to supply enough power to city of Bergen for 1 year. 

Power plant is in a 700 metre tunnel through the mountain from the lakes. The plant is actually built inside the mountain. 

Now on the bus…..

They never run out of water in Norway. 90% power is from water power. Gas is exported as is hydro power and oil. 

The fjord doesn’t ever freeze although the lakes do. There are no commercial fishing in the fjord…. because there are not enough fish. 

Apples are grown, mostly for cider production. Cherries & plums are also grown. 

The population of Eidfjord is only 970 but increases with the cruise ships from April to October, at the latest. 

Lots of fish farms, not that I saw any. 

RV parks are private usually owned by farmers ….to make extra income. 

All the animals have to be kept inside during the winter cuz there is too much snow. 

Lots of tunnels have been built because of rock falls on roads exposed. With tunnels, the roads don’t get covered with snow in the winter either. 

We are told that we are lucky today because it’s not raining and the clouds will not be preventing us from seeing the waterfall.  As it turned out there were also sunny breaks…almost!

Vøringsfossen Waterfall is a 318 metres (500 ft)drop.

In the winter the falls is frozen a blue colour. The falls are closed October to April, there are no tourists

Reindeer are hunted in the fall. 

Northern Norway is busier in the winter because people come for the northern lights. This area is all about skiing where children learn at as young as 3 years. 

Not much sun in winter for 6-8 weeks because of lack of daylight and shade from mountains. 

12 cubic metres of water must be allowed to go down the river at all times otherwise there can be no waterfall.

Houses must have ladder on the outside so the chimney sweep is able to access the chimney from the outside. Because there is a fire in the chimney at Christmas, Santa comes to the front door….

Smoked salted ribs of lamb is the treat for Christmas dinner. 

Last week it was 90 F here. Today not so much. High will be 19 C and breezy in the water. . 

As we get off the ship, we see the performing arts centre … the “Waves” building….inside the waves go right down to the floor. 

In Kristiansand there were 3 fires in the 1800 which destroyed half the city. The  new buildings after that had to be made only of brick… no wood. We drove by the part that was not burnt so are all made of wood. They were all painted white which indicated that they were rich…. They were painted from that  brought from sailors that had gone  afar. 

The city was founded 1641 by King Kristian of Denmark and named after himself. 

At the beach apparently they have palm trees …… that are brought in each year for the winter. 

Population of Norway is 5 M. There is no such thing as “private” property in Norway even though you own it. Anyone can go anywhere except you need to get permission for hunting. The law is called the “Freedom to Roam” which means you are free to go anywhere. At the amusement park there is a pirate’s treasure chest for pacifiers when it’s time the children get rid of them. 

Lillesand

Lillesand (means smallest beach and really is tiny) was built before Kristiansand. It was in existence before 1600s when they traded for roof tiles, with Holland. 1 tile cost 1 lobster. There were lots shipyards here until steel ship building came about. 

 

Fake windows… some are covered with plywood. When asked when the owner was going to replace them with glass, he said “whenever I can afford them”. 

In Norway, everyone gets 5 vacation weeks paid per year (taken from pay)…. no taxes in June. If you are over 60 you get 6 weeks. Official retirement age is 67. Paying into retirement is mandatory. Free education incl university for tuition not living expensive but there is support for living away from home. 

All admissions to hospital are free…. You can choose which hospital incl transportation to get there. You can also change doctors up to 2x per year. After the you pay the first $360 for physio and extra stuff, the rest is free. Wheelchairs …..anything prescribed, is free. Royalty uses the same hospitals and schools as everyone else.   Dental is not covered unless there is peridontal disease…. is. 

Free maternity, ultrasound,etc. Sick pay if you cannot work during maternity. You get 100% pay for 49 weeks off after birth or 80% for 59 weeks. The mother gets 6 weeks  off after delivery but then it can be divided between parents. 

Life expectancy is 83/84 years for both. 

Oil taxes goes into a fund for future. Only 3% can be used for government. 2 trillion in the fund now. Norway was one if the poorest nations to one of the richest. 

We then get a boat ride back into the city/harbour. 

2/3 of the people own their own boats. 

The “Bumblebee”…..is for laying cables and pipes for gas and electrical on the ocean’s floor. It goes onto the World’s largest ship, the “Pioneering Spirit”. 

New homes cannot be built closer to the sea than 100 metres. Old cabins can remain. 

Flag must come down at sundown, up at sunrise, never to remain up at night.  Ones that can remain up have no “cross” but are just a long narrow streamer. 

23,000,000 Norwegian krona 3,400,000 CAD for little house with man standing in front (no picture)

Heather is the national flower… purple blooms at end of summer. 

The boat ride took us along beautiful stunning coastline dotted with so many “summer” homes. See below.

Tunnel to island is very steep… Max 60 kms/hr 

3 tall ships remain…. Schools to learn how to be a sailor. When we returned to the dock in Kristiansand, the Royal yacht was parked in front of the “Waves” (performing arts) and the “Silo”(art museum).

There is a parade of a Caribbean celebration today. They are expecting 300,000 people to be watching. With many roads being closed, our bus (and others) are being diverted. I am impressed with our bus driver navigating around on extremely narrow roads….. she was amazing!

Originally formed in 1873, HAL transported passengers to NY and America for a better life. The company left the Netherlands to NY in 1971 to become a “cruise” line. Our guide said that the company then came back to Holland in 2008 but I don’t believe so. As far as I know, it is still headquartered in Seattle.

Poor people were housed in area of the Maas River and generally worked in harbour. All the old homes were torn down and replaced new buildings around 10 years ago. 

Rotterdam was almost totally destroyed during 2nd WW by fires started by the bombing. 

1270 Rotterdam started to be settled when a dam was built on the Rotte River….. an area that was swampy. The swampy area had been inhabited with small farms only, staring around 900. 

 Lijnbann, a pedestrians street with fancy shops and cafes. 

There are no public toilets in the city. 

1962-2004, Rotterdam was the largest port in world but has been declining since. Last year though, the largest ship came into port with 24,000+ containers.  

The ground was boggy …..swampy so had to have 50+ piles to support a building. 

On ships containing porcelain from China, many were broken. They thought they could copy it here but they had to make earth-ware cuz didn’t have stuff to make porcelain…. now called Delft earth-ware.

Lots of building made from brick cuz they have no stone. 

There is 24 hour pumping to keep water levels lower. 

Some of the newer high rises are referred to as “no-nonsense”….a little boring but efficient. 

An apartment in city cost for 40 sq mtrs 300,000 euro, 50 is 500+, etc. 

Yesterday we left Victoria by bus and ferry to Vancouver International for our flight to the UK. I must say that taking the Wilson Transport to YVR certainly is convenient. They handle you luggage til arrival at the airport even though we had to change busses at Tsawwassen….. and we didn’t have to find our way there (things have changed so much) or park the vehicle.

Once in Gatwick (July 20), it was just a lazy day resting up…. Tonight we will sleep. Tomorrow we will take the train into London, meeting up with a gal I met on the cruise I took from Bangkok to Sydney, Australia, November/December 2025. I am looking forward to reconnecting with her as well as seeing the sights of London.

We took the train into London (July 21/26) thinking we would meet her at London Bridge but…. oops! Wrong train……ended up being close to an hour late.

$87 for the 2 of us to take the train all day and return.

Things are soooooh expensive. (I’ve probably said that before). For example…. we had just plain Americano coffee this morning ….6 British pounds ($11.26 CAD).

$161 CAD for dinner and breaky in the following morning for 2, yesterday.

We wandered down to where we caught the Uber boat for a ride on the Thames….. to Westminster.

We got off at Big Ben and the parliament buildings. From there we wandered that area.