I didn’t do an excursion today, just did some catch up and then went for a bit of a walk first through the local market and then through some of the streets of downtown Suva with friends May and Lindsay. So just some random pictures ….

Lecture about Suva and the rest of the stops in Fiji

Don’t drink the water they are telling us.…30% of US bottled water comes from Fiji……but 53% of the population in 2011 didn’t have access to clean drinking water. Deep acqifered water is supplied from under volcanoes,creating perfect filtration system.  Fiji is the number 1 source in US, for bottled water. The Californians Lisnick family bought the rights  to the water in 1996.  Now the income from water is $43 million. It is the number 1 income…is  24% of all exports.   So many of the Fijians still don’t have a clean supply of drinking water though.

An Italian firm is developing something to clean the water using seagrass….to clean up coastal water.  It is being looked at to solve the problem.

Fiji used to be known as cannibalism isles.  It had a rumoured reputation so not many were keen to stop here.

Many came though as ”beachcombers” from shipwrecks. In 1874 it became British crown colony. They made it illegal for non Fijians to own land. Brits brought South Asians in as indentured labourers to work the sugarcane. And so they remained.  I think I heard that they are 40% of the population. In 1970, Fiji gained independence from Britain.

#1 & 2 stop-Suva, apparently became known as the NY of Pacific.  There are not so many good beaches beaches

Sigatoka sand dunes I’d like to see….also Suva national park

#3 stop-Lautoka…..sugar exporting port, botanical garden., sugar mill, beach 

#4-Dravuni island…beaches island is only 1.5 miles long… great snorkeling.  There are no tours. Bathroom are not available

#5-Sauvasauva……snorkelling….marine park…amazing corals, turtles,

250 varieties of palms, hot springs….maybe can try that.

Biggest income is from tourism brought about by the export of Fijian water that so few locals still have access to.  Something is wrong with that picture in my mind 

Oct22 (here)….Suva

As we sail into the Suva harbour, I notice that there are so so many “dead” ships.  It looks as if the “bay” is wide open but then you notice that the reefs are all around, just below the surface making for a narrow accessible passage in. (It reminded me of another place ….in India, that the beaches were littered with rusted-out hulk of ships.  I think it was in Mangalore).  Looking beyond, the mountains are really quite rugged.  One mountain “Joske’s Thumb” is a volcanic plug, looks as though there should be a statue atop it.

Before getting our excursion, Keith and I walked to the “Apple” repair store.  It was way further than we had anticipated.  And we had quite an experience getting across a round-about when they are all driving on the “wrong”….lol, side of the road……..it was a little 😨scary!  Unfortunately, all they could do there was dry it out and that was no guarantee.  If it needed parts, it would take 2 weeks to get them …..from Australia ……and would probably cost the same as a new phone.  I guess I am just SOL! 😩. 

Tour to Col I Suva park and waterfall

“Bula” is hello in Fijian, vinaka(sp) is thank you

330,000 in area….90,000 population in city.  Suva is distribution centre for many of the other countries in the South Pacific.. 

Main source of income used to be sugarcane now but is tourism (and water).  From here on in I could hear so little, mostly cuz the diesel bus we were riding in had the door open as the driver accelerated up the hills to the Colo I Suva Forest Park/Reserve, it was extremely noisy. And so I put my iPad away.

After arriving at the park entrance we walk down a gravel road where a guide pointed out different jungle vegetation.  The description of the tour had mentioned birds.  We never say a one.  I was very disappointed!  Only heard cicadas but did see some butterflies.  At the end of the road we trekked down a somewhat treacherous trail to a string of waterfalls.  It was very hot and humid so I decided along with a good number of others, I would go for a swim.  Oh my…..it was mighty cold getting in but then……it was sooooo nice…..not bad at all.  Unfortunately, what goes down must go back up.

Some of my observations of the areas that we drove through getting there…..some quite lovely homes in the area near embassies/consulates but oh my, talk about tin shacks and I am not talking just the roofs.  Pretty poor! We also saw banner flags on hydro poles like we see advertising coming events/festivals.  They were advertising about AIDS and HIV……”it only takes once”, a picture of a guy say that he’s been living with AIDS for 10 years, “get vaccinated”, etc.  I don’t think I have ever seen that wherever I have been before.

We were greeted  by singing and dancing on the pier. 

Women are all wearing matching tops with long skirts called a pulatasi. It is worn for special occasions.  It is a sign of respect. For every day though it’s shorts and tees. The men on the other hand have short skirts and bare chests.

The vehicle we travel in is the most rustic buses I think I have ever ridden in. The benches are wooden. The driver builds the bus made from wood of poumuli.  Teuila flower is national flower….from the ginger family. The buses have them attached to the outside…

First stop is the “Flower Pots”. It is 2 rocks just off the shore. ….It  shows a couple ….fatsu at back and mafutti (a woman closest to road). The story goes that they went swimming but have to be on shore before dark, they were late and so died there.  She almost made it.  There are curfews still that say you must be out of the water and not outside by 6 pm for evening prayers. “At 9pm the bell will ring signifying the village evening curfew for all students. At 10pm, the bell will ring signifying the village curfew for EVERYONE”.

Must always be respectful ….very religious …Christian.  There is a church at least every kilometre. They are not particularly beautiful. John Williams brought Christianity to the islands…. Before that they were canniballs. No swimming on Sunday. You must keep the sabbath. White Sunday…. Children wear white 2nd Sunday every October. I can’t remember the rest of the tradition.

Samoans are bilingual (Samoan and English). There is 1 movie theatre, 1 hospital , 3 clinics, 1 prison.

2nd stop is at Tafuna….stop where TAOA is where you go for assistance with elderly family.

There are no public cemeteries so they bury their loved ones in the front of their property

Chiefs and high chief are inherited position.  Only vote for local government. People are called nationals … cannot vote in American elections.

Last tsunami here was in 2009 that killed about 200 in both Samoas. We stopped here in Leone where there is a memorial for those that lost their lives.

Sunday after church they always have a feast… which is cooked by the boys in the traditional way….outside.  Other foods on other days are cooked by the women in the house 

Public school is free including the food and bus ride.

Coconut good for upset stomach

Third stop….At the village….

Boys cook as long as they’re up to it….lol! First they start with taro leaves then coconut milk, spinach, breadfruit, banana leaves. The more banana leaves the hotter the inside gets. 

In Hawaii women wear a flower on left same as ring finger to signify they are married but the opposite is true here in American Samoa.  Here it is worn on the right.

Each family runs a separate tour so this tour, the interest is to this village. All participants are from same family.  Another family will run a tour to a different place.

Population of American Samoa is 60,000 plus…. There is only one community college that you can go for 2 years then you have to go mainland US. 

This small island is spectacular with its steep mountains covered with lush jungle.  Oh my goodness though, jungle, tropics and ocean means heat with extreme humidity…..phew…sweaty!  The weatherman had promised rain but that didn’t happen.  That might have been a good thing though.

We arrive there in two days time.

American coastlines on the Pacific are 6640 miles around Alaska, 1293 off the US mainland and 750 in Hawaii …..total of 8683 miles of shoreline.

American interest in the Pacific islands are for fishing rights, economics and military.

Bikini is the only island that the people have been displaced.

American interests include Northern Marianas, Baker Isl., Howland Isl., Johnston island, Kingman Reef, Midway, Palmyra Atoll, Wake Island, all of which are unoccupied.  Guam, Saipan, American Samoa are occupied or inhabited.

Inhabited islands although territories, have no vote in congress.  They are “organized”…. Have self-government but are “unorganized” & “unincorporated”….confusing as it seems.  In 1961, American Samoa had a Washington makeover.  There are now more fast food outlets per capita than any other state.

Tuna production is 95% of income of the island….. through StarKist Tuna cannery.

Tutuila Island where Pago Pago is located, is the biggest of 7 islands.

You must be atleast 50% Samoan to own land.  Land is not handed  down to eldest or first born but the most well behaved.  How about that!!!

Beach are to left, shops to the right…..barter for everything.

Museums, MacDonalds….lol

National park is free.   Visitor Center has the best wifi.

Apparently there are huge bats with a wingspan of 3 ft.

266 nautical miles to go to Am.Samoa, at noon today. Tides will be an extra metre higher tide brought on with super moon.

Here are some pics of the ceremony from the other day when we crossed the equator. Shown are pictures of King Neptune and his mermaid queen, the kissing of the fish and the slathering of the polliwogs. Lots of people present!

 

Weird……At about 6:30 am this morning, the forward half of the ship is in the southern hemisphere,the aft half is the northern hemisphere sphere and…..the date in the starboard or right side….west side, the date is October 16 and the port, left side on the east side it is Oct 15.  We can now be referred to as “Golden Shellbacks”.  Not many can call themselves that.

 

Next day it is still October 16th (day 22) but maybe it’s the 17th.  The ship is not flipping the dates as we crisscross the ocean.  It can be too confusing otherwise.  Anyway, it is 7 am and the temp is already 27 C. as we sip our coffee on the aft pool deck.  It’s a tough life…lol!

Another Tech talk for travellers…..Planning ahead

TripIt or Trip-case (faster)

Create an account or you can join using Google. It reads your emails so info is put into upcoming trips.

You can add other plans by forwarding confirmation numbers like hotels…..which also has “Location safety”. It can tell you what restaurants etc are nearby. Then you can share your plans with friends or family. You can also select who you wish to share or not, your plans with.

Packpoint

Add new trip or useTripIt ……Activities. Begin packing…check things off or can add separately. You can edit numbers of items. Edit entire trips in top right

TravelSpend 

create trip. Budget for your trips. Also home currency…to convert….exchange rate on expenses. Statistics, etc. Plus sign….Sort of spreadsheet….also split expenses using percentages with others….your choice

App in the Air……unfortunately, after downloading this app, we find out that it will no longer function later this month. Too bad! Seemed like a good one.

Just enter you booking reference…Easy to readily available …flight number, departure times and arrival at local time. It needs cell service….. it gives the weather….gives times thru each area in airport (passport, baggage, customs). Airport maps …show also where you are

WheelMap 

How accessible everything is for restaurants, airport or wherever.

Flush

Finding the nearest toilet. If a restaurant offers seating with food in England, they have to provide toilets…..it may require a key or code.

Gary doesn’t want me to share the link to his video on the internet but he said to show a couple of his “stills”. Anyone that wishes to see the video after I get home I can show it…..maybe on my TV???

If you were born here your life expectancy is 67 years but you will outlive this island because it will disappear within 50 years because of rising sea levels.  The highest point is only 9 ft above sea level.  Most of it is already underwater.  It will be the Atlantis of the future. The homes are built on stilts and apparently have no walls.

Pacific is largest ocean in the world. Kiribati nation covers one of the largest geographical area in the world….1 million square miles but is comprised of only 33 island … this one we are stopping at is 33 sq kilometres or 13 square miles.

Kiribati straddles all 4 hemispheres. It was also known as the Gilbert Islands.

British were there from 1888…. Paid out a 10 million AUS $$$ payment when they left

Tabuaeran atoll is also the name for Fanning Island

Their source of income comes from coconuts, cobra fibre, seaweed farms as well phosphate mining.

At only 13 sq miles, it is not a usual international cruise ship stop.  This year they will only have 2 stopping here ….both HAL.  Next year will be 3 times.  It used to be used by NCL because it flew the international flag, so it had to abide by the Jones Act and had to go to a foreign port before returning to the Hawaiians Islands or the US mainland.  While using it as a stop they built a number of facilities. After Covid they flew the US lag and don’t have to stop here anymore.

Day 20-Monday Oct 14/24 or Tuesday Oct 15/24 for the people of Fanning because we have crossed the International Dateline. We are not changing ours for today’s crossover.

This morning as we approach Fanning Island with everyone so looking forward to setting foot on this beautiful atoll, the captain comes on the intercom to tell us that we will not be going ashore. The winds are coming from the south instead of the south-east causing a 3-4 knot plus swell with standing waves……a washing machine effect, at the entrance to the lagoon.  The ship can’t deploy the platform that the tenders are launched from (they are only one foot out of the water). Because of those swells etc. preventing us from going ashore, we are just going to cruise around but keeping a fair distance from shore. There have been no charts made since 1898. So……the captain is not taking a chance by getting any closer.

Only a population of just over 2000 with only 2 vehicles with no paved roads on the island. In 1798 it was discovered by Europeans. Phosphate is mined, fishing, harvesting of coc meat, cobra 

Below are a whole lot of pictures of this amazing atoll in the middle of nowhere. The colours of the water in the inside of the atoll are spectacular.

The national bird is the frigate bird. It can stay afloat for weeks at a time.

Nothing much to report other I have been trying to catch up on pictures/blogs, etc.  The only thing newsworthy (cuz it really hasn’t happened before on this trip), is that other than the temperature being warm, it looks like we are back at home with rain, wind, rocking seas, the inability to see very far……the greyness.  The swimming pool was sloshing over the sides. It made it too difficult for us to dance. Not complaining though!!! ……it is warm.

Day 19-Oct 13/24-Tech talk on taking better pictures with phone

Double click on Google pixel to open camera, volumne up to take pictures

Flash on uses more battery power.  Use the timer to take better selfies and use a water bottle and hair tie to make tripod.

Optic zoom takes better picture.  Manual means same as pro ….or “more”

Put on “grid” …. In settings then camera…rule of thirds

Step back to made background larger.

WhatsApp….can send up to 100 pics at a time cuz they compress them as opposed to email that can only send so many at a time.

To stop downloading everyone’s pictures when having a group “chat” in WhatsApp, go to settings…turn off automatic download.

I have to apologize for incorrectly saying there were 2 guys plus myself on the bike ride. That does not add up to 2 on the tour…..ops! I should have said 3 plus me.

Today, I am taking a private tour with a picked up on the pier. 

Going to the black sand beach first.

Built homes where ponds used to be……..area has been filled in….no pics.

Coconuts require 50 F to survive so none on mountains

Deepest brackish pond in world in Liliuokalani Gardens. It is over 1 mile deep ….hard to believe.

Kalapana…… base of volcano fissure #8

Area going there is now kind of a desert area since of volcano heat in the ground…trees are dying.  Because the trees burned up there is no moisture created

780 homes destroyed in 2018 in this area.

“Puka” is a hole left by lava tube that has collapsed. The lava solid when broken off is vermiculite……so light. Also peacock lava…..like peacock colours

“Tree mould”….blue markers  goes down 10-20 feet where once stood a tree but was covered by lava and then the tree burnt

$30,000 for acre in this area but guide wouldn’t buy cuz it’s too close to the volcano. 

Pentane….liquid made from Geo-thermal gas compressed.

Kalapana

Kilauea 

Gary Sleik photographer/videographer/volcanologist. ….amazing!

Kehena Beach….nudie hippie beach (got quite a sight of one old guy….lol). Black sand is really little black marbles    

Mackenzie park… haunted! The lava tubes make howling sounds at night. This area is known for rogue waves. They take 2-3 lives every year. It is very dangerous. The waves can be 50-60 ft high.

We crossed over the lava fields for 7 miles from fissure 8 before coming this beach

Flow extended into ocean… used to beach at tree line. One day it dropped 3 feet into ocean…but lost they 3 great surfing beaches.

“Puna”…pele’s unpredictable sister 

Steam emitting amongst trees is from the volcano.

 The story we heard about why the inhabitants of Easter island came north to the Hawaiians Islands was that the Polynesians had cut down all the trees there which inadvertently caused them to starve. They needed another place in which to survive.

Only 4 of us on this excursion.  Me and 2 men plus the lead bicyclist.  We are using specially made, very heavy bikes.  We are not to use both brakes at the same time…..right first which is for rear brakes otherwise you could fly over the handlebars. Mount Haleakala is just over 10,000 feet but we are only allowed to ride from outside the national park …..so around the 6500 foot level.

Lahaina Electric “will probably go bankrupt soon cuz the cause of Lahaina fire was faulty electric lines and rotten poles that blew down during the hurricane causing the fire”.  They had another fire on Haleakala about 3 months ago but they believe it was naturally causes.  Will take 8-10 years to rebuild Lahaina. As we drove off, we saw tents to house the displaced residents. 

They used to farm sugar cane here til 2016.  They now trying to grow limes and oranges ….trying to make it so that they don’t have to import everything….become more self sufficient.  Not allowing the land to be used to build skyscrapers, just farming. 

“Up country” refers to above 1500 feet elevation.  Every island has a cowboy town cuz there’s a ranching. 

Wild deer, boars…it is never not hunting season.

Evidence of trees burnt happened at the same time as Lahaina

Kula next town. The road was built for SDI by R. Reagan …..is military.  It’s a good road, paved, no police so no speed limit but it has very sharp turns but we did see a “B-train” come around one.  There was not room enough for another vehicle though. The road is a 12% grade.

The houses do have fireplaces up here cuz it gets down to 40 F.

Grow proteas here…probably better than South Africa ….appparently!

At the 4000 ft elevation there are no more houses. It is all cattle ranch

Hurricane Dora… Lahaina fire and trees downed.

Kahalini Island that we can see way off shore, was use to test bombs so no access to public cuz of possible unexploded ordinance.

Power lines cannot be buried here cuz the lava is just below the soil.  It would be extremely costly and almost impossible without blasting .  Electric company  has to keep cutting the trees away from power lines to prevent fires. 

Below 5000 feet or over 50,000 feet is only place you can fly any aircraft.  Everything else is military airspace

Haleakala means “House of the Sun”.

Canada goose is called Nene goose, is their state bird….funny!  Thee is a $50,000 fine if you kill one. 

There are no dairy farms here.  Consequently it costs $15.50 /gallon for milk on Maui. 

We stop to shop at Makawao.  It is a “cowboy town” with all the old buildings from the early 1900’s.

“Red shower trees” bloom when it rains.  There are yellow ones too but sorry …didn’t get a picture.